Rat control

Rat poison station

Station of rat poison, placed inside along a wall.

In food businesses chemical agents must be avoided as far as possible. There is a risk of contaminating the food and the dead rats stink horribly. However, it is advantageous to place boxes of rat poison in strategic locations outside buildings, so rats are fought before they find their way into buildings and establish themselves there. When rats are inside buildings one should use the snap traps, so the dead animals can be easily removed. Use plenty traps. Place them with the trigger mechanism against the walls and make sure the bait is well fastened. In special cases, one must resort to extermination with poison.

The local authorities can provide a list of pesticides that may be used for rodent control.

Mouse control

Do not place mouse poison directly onto the ground

Do not lay out mouse poison freely on the ground by the base of the building. Place it under a board or in a drainage pipe.

Preventively, one can lay out many small stores of poison grain along building foundations where the mice look for ways in. The stores must be shielded from bad weather and against children, birds and other animals eating them. This can be done by putting poison in special dispensers, in drainpipes or simply under boards, placed diagonally on the base.

The mice that come indoors, must as far as possible be controlled using traps. Poison is not suitable for indoor pest control because dead mice in inaccessible places stink horribly and even become incubators for blowflies, bacon beetles and other insects.

The mousetrap is effective and is preferred indoors.

The mousetrap is effective and is preferred indoors.

Unlike rats, mice are curious about new objects and are therefore easy to catch in traps. As bait in traps herbal diets are best suitable (grain, seeds, nuts, raisins, etc.). Use plenty traps. Place them at right angles from the walls where mice move. Check on traps with appropriate intervals.

The extermination of cockroaches

Before you start the extermination, it is practical to locate the insects’ hiding places. Cockroaches will swarm into hiding if you suddenly turn on the light in a dark room. Spray containing pyrethrin in the suspected cracks will chase the cockroaches out. For the extermination you can use aerosols or sprays containing pyrethrin (or an associated base) + the adjuvant piperonyl butoxide, which enhances the effect of the pyrethrin. These insecticides are injected directly into the animals’ hiding places. The effect is short-termed and the treatment may be repeated as needed.

Dusts containing pyrethrin and the like are particularly suitable for use in dry, sheltered places, for example in cavities, where it is suspected that cockroaches move and live. Dusts are used mainly as an addition to other control measures.

Bait boxes are plastic boxes with hinged inlet openings for cockroaches. They contain a combination of bait attractants (the aforementioned pheromones), and insect venoms. They are placed or hung in places where cockroaches live, and they are suitable for the control of small cockroach populations and as part of the extermination in which other measures are included.

Prevention

Be careful when buying a dog from a kennel. If you suspect fur mites, you should wash the dog or the supervising veterinarian may be able to confirm that the dog comes from a fur-mite free place. Flea collars or pour-on products may have a preventive effect.

Grooming
Because the fur mites and their eggs do not stick particularly well to the fur, daily grooming in the form of brushing will help remove any mites. If the animal should be washed for other reasons, you might as well use a pesticide shampoo.

Dealing with the problem

pharmacist who caught the bed bugs

Fig 2. The pharmacist who caught the bed bugs, drugged them with chloroform and killed them with a hammer, we have found in a German pre-war leaflet about bed bugs. Also today, ineffective pest control is a problem. When control does not work it is often due to insufficient knowledge about the animal species and biology as well as improper use of insecticides.

The biting and stinging animals are different and you have to deal with each problem in accordance with the biology of the biting or stinging animal. Therefore, it is important to start by determining what kind of animal you are dealing with.

If you catch the animal in the act the matter is clear. But often the animal is gone, or it is so small that it is not detected. In these cases, you only have the more or less characteristic skin symptoms to rely on, and they can rarely be used for a certain diagnosis.

The animals, however, as evidenced by the following chapters, each have their own very specific way of life. They can only behave in certain ways. This means that there will always be a number of circumstances, which can be used to confirm or rule out the suspicion, or even completely eliminate certain options.

In many cases, control and prevention is not possible or would be disproportionate in relation to the discomfort. This applies to most of the animals you are bitten or stung by outdoors.

However, when dealing with animals such as head lice, pubic lice, cat fleas, itch mites or fur mites, eradication and control is almost always necessary.